Hakuna Matata in Zanzibar

IMG_6919

Zanzibar is a semiautonomous part of Tanzania in East Africa. Also known as the spice island, it is not only a coastal touristic paradise but has a very rich history and culture.

The capital is Zanzibar City, located on the island of Unguja. Its historic centre Stone Town is a World Heritage Site and located on the west side of the island. Stone Town’s streets and townhouses reminds me a lot of Oman, and the reason of it is that it was once the capital of Oman.

Zanzibar fell under the control of the Sultanate of Oman back in 1698. As it was a base for traders from African Lakes region, India and Arabian Peninsula – it is different than Tanzania or even East Africa. It has its own leader, governing bodies and unlike other African countries, 95% of the population’s religion is Islam.

Visa:

Many nationalities get Tanzania visa at the border by paying 50 USD. They asked for vaccination record and I didn’t have it but it was still ok.

More details about visa can be found here.

Language:

The main language is Swahili and you will hear it from the locals approaching you all the time, so better to know a few words beforehand. Below are the most common ones you will hear:

Jambo Jambo: Hello

Ashanti Sana: Thanks

Karibou: Welcome

Hakuna Matata: All is good, no worries

Currency:

You can use either US dollars or Tanzanian Shilling (TZS) in Zanzibar.

When to visit:

Zanzibar has two rainy seasons in a year. The long rainy season lasts from March until May and booking a beach holiday during this period is not a good idea. The short rains generally take place between November and December, but aren’t nearly as intense. Even though we were there at the beginning of May, it didn’t rain at all and the temperatures were perfect.

Don’t expect to have safari experience there as the only wildlife in Zanzibar is under water. Want to go for diving while you are in the island? The high diving season is July to September and December to January, and if you have limited time, make sure to reserve your diving experience beforehand.

How to get there:

There are two ways to get to Zanzibar by plane – either by flying to Dar Es Salaam and taking a small adventurous plane from there, or flying directly to Zanzibar.

If you fly to Dar Es Salaam and don’t have the guts to fly with small planes or want a cheaper option, you can also take a fast ferry to the main island. The high-speed boats run four times a day each way, take about two hours, and a ticket will run you less than half of what it costs to fly.

zanziplane
Plane in Dar Es Salaam about to take off to Zanzibar

Where to stay:

The coastline offers some of the best beaches of the world, and different areas of the island offer different experiences to visitors. If you’re looking for a beach escape with other Westerners, head north to Nungwi and Kendwa. North east on the other hand is where many top accommodation resorts are set on. Meliá Zanzibar is one of them, and that’s where we stayed during our 3 days trip.

First thing to know about the island is that it gets more remote and quieter when you go up to north, and more populated when you go down to south. Stone Town on the west coast is good for being explored in a full day with a guided tour but not to stay unless you want to be in the historical centre.

Melia Zanzibar:

Melia Zanzibar is a luxury beach all-inclusive resort situated on the north-east coast of the exotic island of Zanzibar. The hotel has private villas, an infinity pool, a spa, 5 restaurants and 4 bars providing guests the opportunity to experience culinary delights from around the world.

One thing to know about Zanzibar is that the whole island is under the effect of Indian Ocean tides, caused by the moon’s gravity against the mass of the ocean. At Melia, swimming is possible only at high tide. The difference  between the low and high tides are 6 hours but don’t worry – walking on the beach and finding colorful star fish when there is low tide was also fun.

Offering spectacular views especially when the sun is shining, it is a perfect hotel if you want to stay in and relax. About 1 hours away from Stone Town, it is far from all the night life and you feel a bit stuck with the hotel’s entertainment at nights.

The hotel’s Gabi Beach is accessible by a shuttle from the main building. There are hammocks and a bar/restaurant for a perfect day on the beach. Diving club is open during diving season if you wish to go diving as well.

For the evenings, I strongly recommend a tapas dinner at Jetty Restaurant but make sure to have a reservation as it is always fully booked.

gabihotel.JPG
Gabi Beach – Melia Hotel

What to do:

If you don’t want to spend your days on the beach, you can visit Prison Island which is a former prison for slaves and quarantine station, or head to north to see Nungwi and Kendwa beaches.

Unlike us, you may want to spend more time in Stone Town and take a famous spice tour which  usually takes 5-6 hours. You will be overwhelmed by the abundance of spices growing in spice plantations such as cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla or black pepper.

stonetown.JPG
Market in Stone Town

Other places of interest in Stone Town are House of Wonders, the Palace Museum, the market and the house where Queens’s Freddie Mercury was born in. Freddie was born in Zanzibar in 1946 in this house in Stone Town and it is now a guest house and unfortunately you cannot enter the building.

In short, even though 3-4 days is enough to see the island, you can stay longer to discover Zanzibar and relax a bit more.

Other Costs:

Zanzibar focuses on tourism to boost its economy, so prices of taxis, souvenirs, hotels and taxes are pretty high.

  • Transfer from Dar Es Salaam to domestic flights and the plane costed 65 USD.
  • We were asked to pay 10 USD tax entering Zanzibar at the airport
  • The taxi from Zanzibar Airport to Melia Hotel costed 60 USD
  • Melia Hotel to Zanzibar Stone Town with a 2 hours city tour (all arranged at the hotel) costed 90 USD

On our way back, we preferred to fly from Zanzibar with a stop in Kilimanjaro. It appeared to be a good idea as we got to see the tip of Mount Kilimanjaro – the highest mountain of Africa from the plane’s window.

Sharing the same ocean as Mauritius, Maldives and Seychelles, Zanzibar is a place that is worth a visit and a few more.Personally, I’d prefer Zanzibar over Maldives. While Maldives provides one of the best snorkeling and diving opportunities in the world, you don’t have to be stuck in a single hotel in Zanzibar. What do you think?

Advertisements

Must Have Travel Apps in 2017

IMG_6917

Technology has revolutionized traveling and travel planning just like anything else in the last few years.  There are various mobile applications that makes your travel planning process easier and your travels more enjoyable. From flight and hotel booking apps to review apps which help exploration more fun, you have hundreds of options to choose from.

Here is my top list of mobile applications for planning trips, exploring the area and getting around. Just don’t forget to clean up your phone’s storage before your travels in order to avoid the unnecessary stress.

To Plan:

Booking.com:

Even though I generally compare prices of hotels from a few different websites, Booking.com is the only one when it comes to a mobile application. Easy to use and provides a messaging system with the hotel itself. Pretty competitive hotel rates if you are a Genius member too.

Airbnb:

If you like to stay away from touristic areas and find a remote place to stay, you may want to check out Airbnb.  Offering unique homes or rooms, you can rent unique places to stay from local hosts in 191+ countries.

Skyscanner:

As number of choices increase, the flight booking process gets more complicated. However with Skyscanner, you can compare the prices of many airlines from one destination to another. Also by selecting ‘Flexible (Everywhere)’ as a destination country, you can also decide where to go depending on the flight rates.

TripAdvisor:

I use TripAdvisor both as a meta search engine to find the best rate of a single hotel I’m searching for, or to read about the reviews of specific destinations and hotels. If you have a specific question like ‘how to get to X Hotel from the X Airport’, write it on forums and you will get responses in less than a day.

Weather and Money:

AccuWeather:

Stay connected to the latest weather conditions with AccuWeather. It gives you minute-by-minute information on upcoming conditions for your exact location as well as video updates, details on humidity, UV, wind speed, clouds, pressure, sunrise and sunset times.

Oanda Currency Converter:

Oanda uses an easy interface that gives you access to daily filtered rates for more than 190 currencies. It is a must have app with an easy user interface.

To Explore:

Foursquare:

Foursquare is an app that shows you restaurants, bars, shops, beaches, points of interests and even the trending places that are close by or in the destination you are searching for. If you like, you can create lists before your travels and see their locations on a single map. This will help you save time from searching for where to go and discover the best places by seeing the ratings and reviews left by others.

One alternative to Foursquare is Yelp which is pretty common in the U.S.

TripIt

This is a dream app for organizers. TripIt shows all your trip details at a glance: flights, hotels, car, map, directions all in one place. And all you need to do is to connect your emails with the app so that it grabs the travel information automatically from your booking confirmations in e-mails.

To Get Around:

Uber:

There is Uber in many countries and it’s a life saver if you don’t speak the language of that country. It may not be available in all countries so here are the alternative apps to Uber in different countries:

  • EasyTaxi – Available in 30 countries
  • Careem – Qatar and UAE
  • Lyft – USA
  • Hailo – UK, Spain, Ireland, Japan and Singapore
  • LeCab – Paris
  • BiTaksi – Istanbul
  • Ingogo – Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane
  • Cabify – Columbia, Mexico, Chile, Peru and Spain
  • Grab (GrabTaxi) –  Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia

Google Maps:

Google Maps is a must have app as you actually don’t need to have an internet connection to use it. Once the satellite locates you, you can turn your roaming off and navigate like a pro. It is pretty accurate and easy to use.

Which travel apps do you use the most? Write in the comments below.

My First Experience with Emirates and Etihad Airways

Flying mostly with Qatar Airways in The Middle East, I finally had a chance to experience Etihad Airways and Emirates economy classes last weekend, and I would like to share my experiences about the two premium Middle Eastern airlines based in UAE.

Before booking and flying with any airline, I check the airline’s safety ranking because safety comes before the luxury and comfort. Hong Kong’s Cathay Pacific Airways being the best in safety ranking, it was followed by Emirates, Eva Air and Qatar Airways in 2016. Etihad Airways has been the 8th, pulling ahead Lufthansa, British Airways and Qantas.

So here is my review about both airline’s economy class to/from Dusseldorf, Germany from Doha.

Etihad Airways:

Route: Doha to Dusseldorf
Aircraft: A321
First leg: Doha to Abu Dhabi

Check in: Online check-in opens 48 hours before the departure so I checked in online one day before, and the online system let me select an exit seat which is not a common case for some airlines.

The aircraft: It was an old and small A321 probably because the flight from Doha to Abu Dhabi takes only 45 minutes. The legroom and seat comfort were good. There was no blanket or a goodie bag distributed to passengers which were not really required.

Cabin crew: As I mentioned above, I selected my seat online before, however, another passenger showed up with exactly the same seat number while I was already seated. We went to check with the cabin crew but all she said was it happens, and we could sit on an any empty seat. I would expect such a luxurious airline’s cabin crew to apologize and show passengers the seats, instead of giving this unprofessional attitude. Giving the same seat number is not something common and it gives an idea about how safety is important for that airline.

After the seat issue, all passengers were onloaded and the ground staff came to tell me to take my luggages out and follow them outside as I didn’t have a return ticket from Dusseldorf. All passengers were watching what was going on, and I told them I could book it right there and I don’t need to go out with my carry on luggage. Again, the attitude was unacceptable and I still don’t get why a passenger should have a return ticket to be able to fly to Dusseldorf. They told me the ground staff of Abu Dhabi ask for a return ticket but no one did. I booked a return ticket so I didn’t get out of the plane but the situation wasn’t managed well by the crew.

img_6600
Etihad’s Exit Seats

Generally, the cabin crew was not attentive or they just didn’t care much about the customer experience in a short haul flight.

Service: They distributed an express snack pack which was a small bottle of water and a cold sandwich.

Second leg: Abu Dhabi to Dusseldorf

Boarding at Abu Dhabi Airport: We were taken to a coach after getting off the plane in Abu Dhabi Airport which made me run to my next flight. Luckily, the boarding was just started when I was at the gate and there was a long queue of passengers. This is something Qatar Airways handles very properly. Passengers sit down, and they get onloaded according to their seat zone areas. Here with Etihad or in Abu Dhabi Airport, all passengers got in the plane after business class passengers which created a chaotic environment at the gate.

Aircraft: B787-9. The lighting, design, attentiveness of cabin crew, seat comfort and the leg room was pretty good. One of the things that I loved was the unique pillows that convert into neck pillows and the flexible headrests . Unfortunately they didn’t give any goodie bags but there was noise cancelling headphones as well as a blanket.

Service and meals: The service started with juices and tea/coffee with the express snack pack which was again a cartoon bag including a cold sandwich, sliced apple pieces and a small water bottle. Some passengers asked for coke and alcohol to drink with their sandwiches but the crew said they could only bring them after the service.

On-board Entertainment System: Entertainment system started only when the seat belt sign was off in the air, and the on-screen cursor was not really useful. There were new movies as well as TV shows but the variety of audio and video was less than Qatar Airways or Emirates.

There was no wifi on board, however you are allowed to use your mobile phone with roaming charges.

Emirates:

Route: Dusseldorf to Doha

First leg: Dusseldorf to Dubai (DXB)

Second leg: Dubai (DXB) to Doha

Aircraft: Both planes were A380s even though there were not many people traveling to Doha from Dubai, but it showed how rich the airline is or how they care about the customer experience.

The legroom and the seat comfort was as good as Qatar Airways A380s. Emirates didn’t give any goodie bag but a blanket and a cushion.

On-board Entertainment System: I can say that Emirates has the best entertainment system in terms of variety of videos and audios. However, the on-screen cursor was a bit difficult to use just as it was with Etihad.

img_6752
Cabin crew: It was announced that the cabin crew speaks 7-8 different languages, and they were wearing flags of the countries they are speaking the language of. Emirates’ cabin crew nationalities were mixed while Etihad’s were generally Russian or eastern European, and Qatar Airways has lots of Asian/ South Asian.

Service and meals: The whole service was pretty good. The cabin crew was running around to bring whatever passengers were asking for even before the meal service started. They asked if I would like my water/coke with ice and brought them immediately.

Meals were pretty good. There were only chicken and meat options while Qatar Airways has meat, chicken and vegetarian options in the menu. The chicken I ordered was pretty good, and there were also Italian bread, a bun as well as crackers on the tray. The salad had fish even though it was a chicken meal. They served only one meal for 6 hours of flight.

On the negative side: My seat wasn’t working! I couldn’t lie the seat down all night long and it was a long flight. I was informed the aircraft was full so I didn’t have a chance to change seats either.

In short, I wasn’t very impressed with Etihad’s service but I would still use it if I have to. On the other hand, Emirates made me feel much more safe and welcomed than Etihad. The whole experience was very close to Qatar Airways’ and I would definitely consider flying with Emirates as much as I do with Qatar Airways.

4 Days Roadtrip in Iceland

turf_church
Turf Church in Hof

Vikings and Elves of Iceland is a country really worth a visit. With its dramatic landscape with volcanoes, geysers, hot springs and lava fields, it offers visitors two different kinds of experience in summer and winter.

Located in the North Atlantic Ocean, directly east of Greenland, Iceland is Europe’s western most country. While its neighbor Greenland is considered as part of North America, Iceland is considered to be a part of Europe. The United States was the first country to recognise Icelandic independence from Denmark in June 1944, and surprisingly, it is part of NATO even though they don’t have a military army.

 Volcanoes:

The history of Iceland goes back to the 9th century when Vikings reached the uninhabited island. Since then, living with volcanoes has been a lifestyle for them. There are 130 active and extinct volcanoes and 18 of them have erupted since the first human settlement. The country’s three major volcanoes are Hekla, Katla and Grimsvotn, and the latest eruption was in 2010 in Eyjafjallajokull glacier. On average, an eruption occurs in Iceland every 4 years.

On the positive side, the volcanos provides an endless supply of geothermal energy. Over 90% of housing in Iceland is heated by natural geothermal heat – one of the cheapest and cleanest forms of energy in existence.

80% of the residents of ice and fire country live in the capital Reykjavik, which is a starting point for each visitor to discover the East, West, highlands and The North Iceland. In the recent years, thanks to the football victories and TV series, Iceland has been very popular among travellers.

Religion and Language:

In terms of religion, almost 80% of Icelanders follow Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland. Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland is the officially established Christian church in Iceland and it professes the Lutheran faith.

The language spoken in Iceland is Old Norse, which was the language of the Vikings or Norsemen. Iceland has a high level of education so we didn’t have any difficulty communicating in English.

Visa:

If you are not a European citizen, all you need to get is a Schengen Visa to enter Iceland.

When to visit:

Midnight sun and warmer temperatures make summer attractive to visit Iceland. However, if you are interested in hiking and seeing Northern Lights, you should visit in February, March, September and October.

When we visited in July, we were amazed by the lack of dark skies and the beauty of midnight sun. The sun sets right after the midnight and the sky becomes grey until it rises again around 3:00 AM in the morning. The weather was both cold and warm, as you can experience 4 seasons in one day in Iceland.

What to do:

Road trip is a must if you are willing to see the natural beauty of the island. It takes 10 days to drive around the whole island, however you may also take a different route depending on how many days you have. Camping with vans is also very popular among budget travellers, and there are 170 registered campsites all around the country. Camping didn’t seem to be a bad idea for summer as all the hotels were fully booked, and the remaining ones were extremely expensive during our visit in July.

Having only 4 full days, we decided to take the Southern coast route, starting from Keflavik Airport. There are rental car offices in the airport but we suggest you to do it before arriving. After picking up the car, we headed to Grindavik to spend the night there as it is the closest central area to Blue Lagoon.

blue_lagoon
Blue Lagoon

DAY 1:

Blue Lagoon is located in a lava field in Grindavik. The geothermal spa containing 9 million litres of water hosts hundreds of people who want to bathe in the unique water and apply the silica mud to their skin. The blue colour of the lagoon comes from the silica and the way it reflects sunlight while the water’s actual colour is white. Make sure to use hair conditioner before and after you enter the water as it makes your hair pretty dry. There are also a hotel, restaurant, relaxing room and bar which you can enjoy while your visit to the geothermal spa. The water is 37-40 C degrees and its deepest point is 1.6 meters.

You need to make an online booking in order to visit Blue Lagoon. Make sure to do it as early as possible as it gets really crowded.

Thingvellir National Park: The UNESCO World Heritage centre is a protected national shrine which used to be an area where the disputes were settled. It is the most important place in Icelandic history as Alþingi – which is one of the oldest parliamentary institutions in the world – was founded there. It is also one of the Iceland’s most spectacular Game of Thrones filming locations.

You may walk inside the national park, go down towards the little church and the waterfall at the upper side easily by following the walking paths.

After spending a couple of hours walking, we headed towards the Route 37 which led us to Geysir.

Geysir: The Great Geysir is the most famous one in the field, however it spouts only when there is an earthquake. Strokkur, on the other side manages to satisfy most of its spectators by being the most energetic spouting spring in Iceland. It spouts every 6-8 minutes, sometimes to a height of 40 meters so we got to see the amazing view a few times by spending an hour there.

Gulfoss Waterfalls: This was one of the most exciting sights of the trip. Located in the canyon of the Hvítá river near the Geyser area, it is a must-see place if you like the nature. If you are lucky like us, you will see a rainbow when the sun is shining and be amazed by the dream-like views.  Make sure to go down to the lower viewing platform as it offers much better views.

Vik: Finishing the Golden Circle route in one day, we reached to Vik to spend the night after 2 hours of driving. Hotels in Iceland are expensive and Vik is no exception. We stayed at Puffin Hostel which was our only option as all other hotels were fully booked.

The natural beauty of the area is spectacular as it is the most rainy area of the island. Mountains surrounding the roads were all green and you can see many sheep and horses – and of course puffins if you are lucky.

Accommodating less than 300 residents, Vik is framed by a long black volcanic sand beach. Drive up to the church sitting on a hill, head to the amazing Black Sand Beach and Dyrholaey Nature Preserve where you can see puffins. None of them are in a walking distance from the city centre, so we left these sights to the next day.

geysir
Geysir

DAY 2:

Black Sand Beach: There is really no cafes and bars in Vik, except the small restaurant near the Puffin Hotel/Hostel where we had our dinner the previous evening. For the morning coffee, we headed to the petrol station. It seems like petrol stations are very useful in Iceland as not only petrol but also food and drinks supplier. Then we drove towards our next destination – Black Sand Beach.

Black Sand Beach is a black pebble beach and it features an amazing cliff of regular basalt columns. The area has a rich birdlife including puffins so make sure to look up if you want to spot a puffin. The waves at Reynisfjara are strong and unpredictable so people are advised to take extra care when visiting the area. You are also not allowed to steal the sand from this mystical dark beach.

Jokusarlon Glacier Lake: After leaving Vik, we hit the road again towards our easternmost point – Jokusarlon which is 2 hours away from Vik i Myrdal. On our way, the surrounding green environment replaced itself with quite extensive areas of moss-covered lava. Depending on conditions, it takes moss around 200 years to grow on lava so make sure not to create new paths while walking on it. (Icelanders believe Vikings and Elves live under the moss)

600 meters deep Jokusarlon Glacier in Vatnajokul Region is a must visit place in Iceland. In summer, icebergs melt and roll down the channel into the sea, so we were lucky to see and even touch the pieces of icebergs.

Additionally, some famous movies such as Batman Begins, Tomb Raider and James Bond: Die Another Day were shot in this area.

Hornafjordur Ice Glaciers: Hornafjörður is a small fjord near Jokusarlon so we didn’t have it in our initial plan but just passed by to check it out. It is also a sight that worth visiting.

Hof: After a long day seeing glaciers, we decided to spend the night in Hof. Hof is a small town with a little cute Turf Church. There is nothing to do in the town other than getting your drinks from the closest petrol station near Skatafell and sitting on the grass, enjoying the mountains view and relaxing.

black_sand_beach

DAY 3:

Skaftafell / Vantajokull National Park: The next day, we were totally recharged and ready to climb up the mountains. As we didn’t have much time, we didn’t book a glacier tour and decided to take a walk inside Vatnajokull National Park in Skatafell. After 1,5 hours of climbing, we reached Svartifoss Waterfall. It is also possible to continue walking and reaching the Skaftafellsjökull Glacier Mountain, but we were tired of climbing so we went back down to the entrance.

On our way, we see lava fields again which are covered with moss from 1780s eruptions in Katla Geopark. We suggest you to stop by and take pictures of this amazing landscape.

Dyrholaey: On the other side of Vik, you can visit Dyrholaey, a naturally formed arch in the cliff. If you are visiting in summer, you can watch puffins nest on the Dyrhólaey Cliffs. On the other side of the bird sanctuary, you will see another beach covered with black basalt. It is forbidden to go down to the beach but you can enjoy views from the top.

Skogafoss Waterfall: One of the biggest waterfalls in Iceland, this one welcomes us with another scenic beauty. Thanks to the summer sun, we were welcomed with a vivid rainbow in front of the 60 metre high Skogáfoss waterfall.

Get in front of the waterfall, take pictures and don’t care about getting wet. If you’d like some trekking, climb up to the stairs which are on the side towards the church. In some belief, Vikings have left a treasure in a cave behind this waterfall, and people who found this treasure could only get the ring which is now being displayed at this church.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall: This was our second favourite waterfall in Iceland. One of the interesting things about this popular waterfall is that visitors can walk behind it into a small cave. Just be careful not to fall as the mud is very slippery.

seljalandsfoss_waterfall
Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

DAY 4:

We drove back to Reykjavik on our third night so that we could spend our last day in the city. As there were Euro 2016 football games, we spent the evening watching the game at Lebowski Bar, and had a very nice dinner at Sjavargrillo – tasting Icelandic food and beers. After dinner, we headed towards the coast to watch the amazing midnight sun.

The next day, we went to Bjork’s favorite café – The Gray Cat Café to have a breakfast. After getting lost in streets full of shops, we went up to the terrace of the Hallgrimşkirkja Church to view the city from the top. Hallgrímskirkja Church is Reykjavík’s main landmark and its tower can be seen from almost everywhere in the city.

In general, there is a very relaxed life in Iceland. It gave us the feeling that no one works in winter so everything costs double in summer. Still, it was worth every penny we spent there. So thank you Iceland, for giving us the opportunity to see your hidden gems and beauty.

midnight_sun
Midnight sun in Reykjavik

Paradise in Africa: Cape Town

I finally made it to the continent Africa. With its spectacular views, beaches, nature, food, wine and mountains, it gained my heart in such a short time. I believe it should be on top of every traveler’s bucket list.

Cape Town is a port city on South Africa’s southwest coast. Being the second largest city in South Africa and the capital of the Western Cape Province, the city is located where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet. Languages spoken in the city are English and Afrikaans which actually sounds like Dutch. Summer is between November and February, unlike the northern hemisphere.

My expectations were high as I got recommendations from my colleagues and friends who visited this beautiful destination before. As the time was passing, my excitement to see the actual city and Africa was increasing as well. It took 9,5 hours flight time from Doha and I was finally there! Our plan was to stay there for 4 days, however one should spare at least 7-8 days to enjoy it properly.

Cape Town is a safe destination but avoid poor parts of the city which are generally in downtown. Interestingly, I’ve seen more elder tourists than younger ones. The couple in their 70s, sitting next to me in the Waterfront were mentioning that it was their 7th visit to Cape Town. Isn’t that amazing? It was probably the first time I got jealous of people of their age.

The city is pretty cheap. You can feel the African culture but feel like you are in a small British town. There are very rich people as well as very poor ones. Jewish people live around Greenpoint area while Muslims live in the colorful Bo Kaap area.

Food & Wine:

The food is de-li-ci-ous! If you are interested in trying game meat such as crocodile, zebra, ostrich or beaver, Cape Town is the place to be.

South Africans love their food. Each dish has an African twist and Biltong (a dried meat cured in vinegar and spices) is on top of it. Exotic food creations are also not limited as you can find yourself eating an ostrich burger or a crocodile meat – accompanied by a Pinotage wine. Braai is African barbecue, but you would need to be invited to a braai party by a friend to be able to experience it. As it is a port city, no need to mention about the amazing seafood offered by restaurants. Wine yards are 30-40 minutes away from the city center, so make sure to leave at least a full day to visit the famous Stellenbosch, Franschoek and Paarl towns. Fancy a bit of luxury stay? Then treat yourself a stay at La Petite Ferme – you will be amazed by the food and views!

Some restaurants I would recommend are:

la-petite-ferme
La Petite Ferme

Where to Stay:

We stayed at an old but expensive hotel around The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, The Commodore Hotel. As they didn’t allow me to check in a bit earlier than the actual check in time, I put my luggage to the luggage store and went out to stroll around the Waterfront. When I came back to the hotel for check in, my luggage wasn’t there anymore! They found it in someone else’s room, and thanks to that, they gave us a room with Table Mountain view, and a complimentary bottle of red wine.

You can stay around the Waterfront area if you wish to be close to the city centre. Hotels around this area were a bit pricey but I guess security is what you pay for in South Africa. If you’re looking for other options, have a look at my recommendations below:

Getting Around:

Renting a car would give you freedom, however, there are other options which are probably cheaper.

I wouldn’t go for public buses but the hop on hop off City Sightseeing bus takes you to everywhere you would want to see – from Table Mountain Cable Way to Camps Bay.

Uber is another way of getting around, and it is really not expensive at all. The airport is only 20 minutes away from the Waterfront, and Uber costs around 170 ZAR. Sedan taxis are also available but I wouldn’t trust their meters.

Another way of seeing around is to book tours. What we did was to spend two days in a hop on-hop off bus and to take full day wine yard and city tours.

Day 1:

First day was a quite relaxing day. It was the first day and I was waiting for my friend to arrive to start discovering the city. I sat at a Belgian bar called Den Anker and had wine sitting outside with a Table Mountain view. After strolling around V&A and Cape Wheel, I headed to Long Street to check out the night life.

Day 2:

We are not professional photographers, however we were so tempted to book a daily photography tour so that we could get a chance to take pictures of penguins, the Cape Peninsula and the colored beach houses of Muizenberg. So here is the route we followed – in case you’d like to do it yourself with a rental car:

Muizenberg Beach – Muizenberg is a beach-side suburb of Cape Town. The beach is beautiful and unique with its bright colored beach houses and the stunning bay and mountain views. It is a great place for surfers but we haven’t seen any as it was pretty early in the morning.

Kalk Bay Harbour –  Kalk Bay is one of Cape Town’s trendiest seaside villages with a fishing harbour. It is full of seals and seabirds, and the fishermen selling their fresh fish. It is strongly recommended to have a lunch there as we did. The traditional fish& chips was delicious.

Simon’s Town – Located at the east side (False Bay side) of the Cape  Peninsula, this town is more organized than Kalk Bay. If you are looking for a day of sun and sea, Simon’s Town is the place to be.

Boulders Beach – This is the beach where you can watch the cute little jackass penguins in their tailcoat costumes. They are all protected so you cannot touch them and you wouldn’t want to do that as they may bite anyway. As we learned, people used to be allowed to swim and play with penguins previously, however their unique species is dying, and human interaction with penguins is no longer allowed. There is also an entry fee to the beach.

Cape Point – Cape Point is a spectacular sight we reached after passing through Table Mountain National Park. You can get the funicular up and climb up the steps to the lighthouse to enjoy the breathtaking panoramic view. This is where two oceans meet – the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean on the west and the warmer Indian Ocean waters on the east however the southern-most point of South Africa is actually Cape Agulhas.

Cape of Good Hope –  The Cape of Good Hope is the legendary home of The Flying Dutchman – it is doomed forever to beat its way through the adjacent waters without ever succeeding in rounding the headland.

Chapman’s Peak View Point – Chapman’s Peak Drive on the Atlantic Coast between Hout Bay and Noordhoek in the Cape Peninsula. After passing Chapman’s Peak Drive road, we reached Chapman’s Peak View Point where we enjoyed the stunning view.

muizenberg
Muizenberg Beach

Day 3:

We took an Uber to the Green Market Square. This square offers visitors a unique and real African shopping adventure. Set between Short Street and Long Street, the historical square hosts African vendors and artists. Make sure to go early and bargain before you buy as Africans believe the first customer of the day brings their own luck.  Most of the stuff appeared to be mass-produced but you can find a good deal to buy masks or a painting for your home. With a good bargain, I bought a mask with a price tag of 3,500 Rand for only 300 Rand.

Later, we walked around and reached the Bo Kaap area where is also known as the Malay Quarter. Designated for Cape Muslims, the rich cultured neighborhood is filled with colorfully painted houses. We took pictures, saw some photoshootings taking place in the narrow streets and then headed back to the Waterfront.

Around the Waterfront, we checked out the Watershed near Aquarium – a market where South Africans sell design products. We had some South African food and beers at The Food Market right next to it. Buying a pack of Bintong and drinks, we started our Hop On Hop Off tour to get to Table Mountain as the sky is bright and the sun is shining. Table Mountain was inaugurated as one of the world’s ‘New7Wonders of Nature’ in 2012. The flat-topped mountain offers visitors a panoramic city views from the top.

Tip: If you’re planning to visit Table Mountain and don’t want to climb it by foot, make sure to head there when the sky is clear as the lifts don’t work when it’s foggy.

After Table Mountain, we continued with the Hop On Hop Off bus tour’s red line which took us to Camps Bay. The beach is very large with white sand, but the sea was pretty chilly to swim. If you’re not into shopping but the beach and a nice promenade with cafes and restaurants, you may prefer to stay in Camps Bay.

camps-bay
Camps Bay

Day 4:

It was the day to discover wine yards and do wine tasting with another full day tour. Our first stop was Fairview Wine and Cheese. Vineyard and goat farm, offering wine and cheese tasting sessions, also has a restaurant, but we move to our second stop – La Motte. Situated in the beautiful Franschhoek Valley in South Africa’s Cape winelands, La Motte seemed more luxurious than Fairview.

After tasting around 10 glasses of wine (it was more for drinking than tasting I guess), we arrived to the restaurant where we fell in love! La Petite Ferme in Franschoek is a relaxed restaurant with stunning valley views. We had our lunch overlooking the valley and wine yards below. The food, service and the view was just amazing and it made us not want to leave there. Good news is you can also stay in this pretty place if you wish to do so.

It wasn’t included in the tour but we wanted to taste champagne as well. So we had our driver take us to Haute Cabriere which was another great experience for us.

Boschendal was our last stop. Being one of the oldest wine estates in South Africa, it is located between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch. There is a nice outdoor setting under the trees where we tasted our wines.

After a day of drinking and eating, we were dropped off to Waterfront and had discovered another great spot for dinner in the V&A. Willoughby & Co, the Japanese restaurant had customers queued up in front of the restaurant even though it is in a shopping mall, but trust me – the food was worth a wait.

If you have more time, you can book a safari tour to see the African wildlife, trail up to Lion’s Head to watch the sunset and Table Mountain, go cage diving with white sharks, spend longer time in Camps Bay and long street.

I’d strongly recommend travelers to visit Cape Town and I’m definitely going back there to experience the rest.

New Year’s Eve in The Great Barrier Reef

Our last stop in Australia was Cairns – where we would relax by the sea and spend the New Year’s Eve.

The tropical north, Cairns is a laid back city in Queensland. It is a popular tourist destination because of its access to one of the seven natural wonders of the world – Great Barrier Reef. From Cairns, you can also visit the Daintree Rainforest, Cape Tribulation and Port Douglas Wildlife Habitat.

There is a growing interest in Cairns from the Chinese leisure market and you can actually see the effect of Chinese people and culture all around the city. As the tourism plays the major part of Cairns economy, we felt like people use this opportunity to charge money for everything. It is hard to plan a budget travel in Cairns if you want to see the sights and attractions.

The airport is very close to the city center. You can watch planes landing and departing from the coastal boardwalk called Esplanade Boardwalk. Unfortunately it is prohibited to swim in the sea as there are seasonal stingers which are deadly jelly fish, and saltwater crocodiles. Instead, you can flock to Esplanade’s spectacular lagoon which is a 4800 square meter salt water swimming pool packed by backpackers, children and families. Swimming is allowed between 6:00am and 10:00pm daily so you can even enjoy the moonlight while you are in the pool at the evenings when the weather cools down. The lagoon is surrounded by free electronic BBQ facilities where families and friends gather around. Having picnic in parks seems like a very common activity in Queensland, however people are not allowed to consume alcohol in public areas.

2
The Lagoon

Restrictions and prohibitions such as walking dogs, smoking, consuming alcohol, bringing glass in some designated public areas are valid in Queensland just like New South Wales. So be careful about signs and behave accordingly.

Where to Stay:

You have a few options in terms of accommodation areas in Cairns. If you are looking for luxurious resorts, you may want to prefer Palm Cove or Port Douglas. Port Douglas is around 40 minutes away from the city center while Palm Cove is a bit further on the north. There are designated areas in the sea where people can swim, as stinger nets are designed to protect swimmers from stingers.

Another option to stay at is Fitztroy Island. It is located 29 kilometers south-east of Cairns, with transfers taking only 45 minutes by ferry (75 AUD). You can stay at the beautiful Fitztroy Island Resort or go for Camping. The sea is amazing, and there is no stinger nets in the sea. There may be less of a danger but you should still be careful.

5
Fitztroy Island

Having stayed in the center – Cairns Plaza Hotel – I would definitely choose to stay in Fitztroy Island next time. Cairns Plaza Hotel was an old city hotel with a few amenities. The pool is very small and no one really uses it. The breakfast was also below average and there are no safe boxes in rooms. If you want to keep your personal valuables in the safe at the reception, you need to pay 7 AUD/day. Plus, the receptionist told us to call our tour company to confirm our pick up place from our room and we were charged another 7 AUD for 2 minutes of local call while checking out. We would at least expect to be informed about the charges of phone calls – or the help of reception for a simple tour pick up confirmation.

3
Cairns Plaza Hotel

The last hotel we stayed in Cairns was Rydges Esplanade Cairns Resort, and it was much better than the Cairns Plaza Hotel which was just next door. It was January 1st, and the hotel restaurant/bar was charging extra 15% on all bills even though you have to go to the bar and order your food yourself.

Cape Tribulation and Daintree Wilderness Tour:

We booked this tour via Qatar Airways Holidays website. We really enjoyed the tour as we finally got to touch koalas during our visit to Port Douglas Wildlife Habitat. Not only holding cute koalas, but also feeding kangaroos were amazing!

After having our pictures taken with koalas, we headed to Daintree National Park and the Daintree River. After a tropical lunch at the Daintree Rainforest, we took a walk along the beach where rainforest meets the sea (Don’t ever think about swimming there as there are crocs). After having a bit more walk in the Rainforest by seeing mangroves, spiders and even ants with green butts (the tour guide said they are tasty!) we took a river cruise to spot crocodiles. Crocs we’ve seen were not really big as we expected but it was a nice tour overall.

1
Mt Alexandria Lookout

Great Barrier Reef 

As we like to dive, we thought spending the New Year’s Eve on a boat in the middle of The Great Barrier Reef would be a good idea. So we booked a 2 days/1 night live aboard tour with Cairns Dive Centre, paying 500 AUD.

Unfortunately, it turned out to be a backpacker tour rather than a once in a lifetime experience.

First of all, the tour was too expensive for what we got. The rooms were dirty, old and stinky, the boat wasn’t well maintained, dives were chaotic and most importantly, dive masters/guides are not included in the price of a diving tour.

4
Kangaroo Explorer – where we spent 2 days in The Great Barrier Reef

We felt like they constantly cared about making more money on us rather than providing a good service. They charge extra for Go Pro hire, pictures taken under the water (20 AUD/picture), dive guides (15 AUD per person even if you dive with 8 people with a single guide) and courses if you want to get an advanced license during your trip. The instructors didn’t seem to care too much, which didn’t give us the feeling of truly being welcomed there. It was like a commercial boat causing hectic for boat residents as new divers arrived/left every morning.

The food was good and plenty. You would have to pay extra for soft drinks and alcohol.

Once we arrived the boat by a smaller one, we were a bit disappointed by the fact that we were stuck in that boat on The New Year’s Eve. Well, we went to sleep on our plastic covered beds at 10:00 AM anyway, but you’d expect a bit of quality after paying such an amount of money for such a tour to one of the seven natural wonders of the world right?

Still, sitting under billions of Southern stars with no phone distraction on the last evening of 2016 was still enjoyable and special. At the end of the day, it is not where you are but who you are with!

When it comes to the reef itself, we were also a little bit disappointed with what we saw. It might have been the case because either we were not on the outer reef, or we were too spoiled by having dived in other countries such as Maldives and Indonesia (Gili Islands). We saw some sharks, turtles, coral gardens but not as plentiful as expected. The visibility was also not great but that can of course change with seasonality.

On our return back to Cairns, they couldn’t organise the drop off shuttle, so we had to wait for the second bus, sitting on the pavement at the harbour. It proved one more time that the 4 stars level payment was for only a tour with backpacker standards.

Tip:

If you are not into backpacking style travel,  we don’t suggest a live aboard tour to Great Barrier Reef with Cairns Dive Centre. Instead, you may consider taking other options as below:

1- Taking a helicopter tour for a good view from top of the reef (300-350 AUD from Cairns)

2- Taking a daily diving/snorkelling tour (100-150 AUD)

We flew back home the next day, leaving Australia with crazy memories – and the curiosity to see more of it.

Uluru: The Spiritual Heart of Australia

After spending 4 days in Sydney, we flew to Ayer’s Rock(Uluru) to see the famous rock formation and have once in a life time experience ‘Sounds of Silence’ dinner under the stars.

Known as Northern Territory’s Red Centre, Uluru (Aboriginal and official name) is sacred to indigenous Australians and is thought to have started forming around 600 million years ago. Located in the heart of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, the rock originally sat at the bottom of a sea, but today stands 348m above ground.

The spiritual heart of Australia, Uluru is notable for appearing to change colour at different times of the day and year, most notably when it glows red at dawn and sunset. We were so excited to have a sparkling wine and Christmas dinner watching the amazing sunset and billions of southern stars, however, Uluru welcomed us with a heavy rain and damaging flash floods, described as a once-in-a-half-century weather event! It was unbelievable while we were warned about the really hot desert climate before planning our travel.

fullsizerender

Getting Around:

First of all, if you are flying to Uluru-Ayer’s Rock from Sydney, sit on the plane’s left side so you can see the rock from top before landing.

Arriving at Ayer’s Rock airport, we were welcomed with a few buses ready to take us to our hotels for free. As there are 4 hotels which were all managed by Ayers Rock Resort, it was a hassle free transportation from the airport to the Outback Pioneer Hotel.

Check in was smooth but the room we had was pretty far from the reception area. After settling in, we received a letter from the tour organisation company for the cancellation of Sound of Silence dinner which was supposed to take place on the same evening. The biggest highlight of our Australia travel was ruined as it was going to take place indoors in a hotel instead – not under stars in a romantic set up. That was the only reason we flew to Uluru and arranged a transportation to Alice Springs.

Knowing that we are leaving Uluru and heading to Alice Springs the next day, we headed to the town centre to check if there is any other tour or even a rental car so that we could drive to the national park and see the actual rock. But it was impossible, all cars were rented out and tours were fully booked. We headed back to the hotel with the free shuttle, on our bare feet as it was raining like crazy.

Tip: If you don’t want to be limited with tours and free shuttles, it is better to rent a car in Uluru. Also, Uluru tours don’t include the entrance fee to national park (25 AUD) so make sure to ask this to your tour organiser beforehand.

Where to stay in Uluru:

There are only 4 hotels/campgrounds in the area, all managed by Ayers Rock Resort. Sails in The Desert seemed like the most popular one, however Outback Pioneer Hotel was more affordable even though it was 200 Euros per night.

Outback Pioneer Hotel was below average as it was very old and has only a few amenities. There is a free shuttle that goes around all hotels and the town centre where you can book tours, shop souvenirs or buy groceries. The hotel has a bar and an open bbq area, and it is the only place visitors of Uluru can take away alcohol. Alcohol consumption is prohibited for locals so you have to buy your alcohol yourself.

The reception was so crowded and there was a chaos. Imagine a small reception hall with towels on the ground so that people can dry their feet. Luggages on the other side – waiting to be transported to the rooms and of course people waiting for their tour buses, shuttles or check in/out times.

It wasn’t worth the money as we ended up leaving the spiritual centre by not even managing to approach the rock, and waiting in the hotel wasn’t really fun as well because of all the chaos and limited number of facilities.

Sounds Of Silence Dinner:

We were picked up by buses and taken to the Sails in The Desert Hotel. There was unlimited sparkling wine, cocktails and aboriginal dance show in the cocktail room, however, we were so disappointed by being stuck in a closed area while it wasn’t even raining outside at that moment. While searching for options to see the actual rock, we met a hotel employee who offered us his car for the next morning after hearing our stories, and we agreed to come to the hotel to pick it up first thing in the morning.

Later on, we were moved to another room for dinner. The food was good but it wasn’t worth 230 AUD per person. Well they credited 50 AUD of it back to the hotel stay but the dinner was not worth 130 Euros at all.

Next morning, we woke up early so that we could walk to the hotel to pick up the nice guy’s car. But leave walking on the road to reach the guy aside, even getting out of our room was almost impossible. The shuttle also starts to run at 10:00 AM so we had no other choice than forgetting about the rock.

After checking out, we sat outside at the bar for hours, and waited for our shuttle to Alice Springs. Everywhere was wet, and we were sitting on the tables trying to protect us from the rain – wishing it also washes all the disappointments away from us.

As the roads were flooded, the bus driver skipped to pass through Kings Canyon and we reached Alice Springs after 6 hours at the evening. On the way, we stopped at the Middle of Australia and saw some emus at Erldunda Roadhouse onsite emu enclosure.

 

emu.jpg

When to Visit Uluru:

If you want to avoid the rain and experience the real Uluru, visit between May and September.

Where to stay in Alice Springs:

After checking in DoubleTree by Hilton at Alice Springs after a long and wet journey, we went downstairs to eat at the The Deck Eatery & Bar. We were almost declined to be seated as we didn’t have a reservation even though we were hotel guests. Disappointment followed us when the waiter didn’t get the order properly and showed up with something else after minutes of waiting.

There was another hotel next to ours, Lasseters – you may want to prefer this one if you are interested in casinos. Next to DoubleTree, there is also a hotel called Desert Palms which seemed more affordable and family friendly.

Alice Springs is known as a popular gateway for exploring the Red Centre and Alice Springs Telegraph Station Historical Reserve is one of the main point of interests in the city. Some people prefer to stay in Alice Springs and take tours to Uluru while we preferred the other way. Visitors can also climb to the top of Anzac Hill for sweeping views over Alice Springs and the distant MacDonnell Ranges.

img_5544

During our day visit, we walked to the centre and Telegraph Station. The road was empty and we were expecting to see some kangaroos on the way – as the bus driver from Uluru suggested. Taking the Riverside Path along the Todd River, we’ve seen one kangaroo and a snake around the bush grounds. Rivers in Alice Springs and around are generally dry, but they still call them rivers.

If you are interested in riding bicycles,  there are bikes available for hire at the Trail Station Wi-Fi Café, when you reach the top at The Telegraph Station.

The day was over, and we were ready to take off to Cairns to see our second highlight of our trip – The Great Barrier Reef.